The Breitling Ref. 817 chronograph is one of the most compelling expressions of mid-century tool watch design, born from a period when aviation demanded absolute precision and clarity.
Developed in the 1960s as part of Breitling’s professional instrument line, the Ref. 817 shares its DNA with the famed Navitimer and Cosmonaute, yet distinguishes itself with a cleaner, highly legible dial and robust rotating bezel. Designed for pilots operating in demanding environments, its oversized luminous numerals, chronograph functionality, and utilitarian aesthetic reflect a singular focus on readability and performance under pressure.
This particular example is presented in stunningly well-preserved, unpolished condition which is a rarity among surviving pieces. The case retains its original proportions with sharp edges and honest surfaces, free from the softening effects of refinishing. The dial is equally impressive, with beautifully aged luminous material that has developed a rich, even patina, enhancing both its character and visual appeal. The watch has been professionally serviced by our watchmaker, with work limited strictly to the internal components to ensure reliable operation, while deliberately preserving every external element in its untouched, original state—an approach that underscores its authenticity and collector value.
The Ref. 817 also carries a subtle yet compelling link to military use, with certain examples believed to have been issued in small numbers to pilots of the Italian armed forces, where their legibility and timing capabilities proved invaluable in flight operations. Notably, this watch features an “EI” engraving on the caseback, now understood to denote Esercito Italiano (Italian Army). This marking, observed on a number of period examples, strongly suggests a connection to military inventory and reinforces the watch’s utilitarian origins, adding an additional layer of historical significance and intrigue to an already fascinating reference.
Offered here is a highly original and honest Breitling 817, an increasingly scarce chronograph that embodies the spirit of 1960s aviation, ties to military history and a condition that will satisfy even the most discerning collector.
The Details:
Case: 39 mm Stainless steel case which remains unpolished and is showing honest signs of previous wear with no major distractions to mention
Bezel: Factory bezel in stunning condition given its age, please compare to others as many have notable scratches though this one was well kept and remains very attractive.
Dial/Hands: Original Breitling black dial in attractive condition with nice even patina forming on all of the markers. Hands are original with attractive patina as well
Caseback: Original caseback which is marked EI 0550
Movement: Breitling manual winding movement, serviced by our watchmaker and is currently running +9 seconds per day.
Bracelet/Strap: Original, yet modern, Breitling band along with Breitling metal clasp.
Crystal: Original Acrylic in attractive condition
Accessories: Watch comes watch only, it does not come with box or papers.
